Mae Hong Son loop is name for set of scenic serpentine roads crossing hills and valleys of north west corner of Thailand. Loop starts and ends to Chiangmai, the second largest city after capital Bangkok. There are several route options one can choose. This link describes the loop more in detail. I followed Pai, Mae Hong Son and Mae Sariang route with a friend year ago, but switched Mae Sariang this time to Mae Chaem. This turned out to be good idea as views were better and could more easily visit Doi Ithanon, the highest point in the country.
Route as my phone recorded it (for some reason Google had determined farthest distance being 88.095 miles. Route in total is about 500-600km)
Infrastructure is well developed and guesthouses can easily be found all along the route. And, occasionally fascinating restaurant or coffee shop too. These services are best in Pai and Mae Hong Son, but are not nonexistent elsewhere either. Compared to its neighbours, Thailand have had more time and better resources to improve its road network. For most part road was in good condition. Driving style is “interesting” to be put mildly. Car drivers generally consider bikers as their inferiors, that stay away and give way when needed. This can be seen especially on big highways, but sometimes on smaller roads as well. After 10am to around 4pm, especially now when rain season had not started yet, sun can be tormenting. Good sun glasses and lotion are a must!
What is Songkran, is best illustrated with photos 🙂
Am big camera and photo nut and would normally take real camera with me. But as it was Songkran, the Thai new year, the water splashing is guaranteed everywhere from big cities to small roads in the middle of nowhere. So decided to keep electronics at minimum, and just use smartphone for everything. Same device is invaluable these days with maps, routes and location tracking. And searching information about guesthouses.
For the transport, chose my 150cc Honda PCX. Its not torque oozing touring bike, but rather just a big scooter. I found it enough for one person to pull up the mountains. Tank is big enough for about one to two hundred kilometres, while the engine is not as thirsty as in bigger bikes. Compartment under the seat takes helmet plus stuff such as clothes, sandals etc. Dedicated box behind the seat wound improve the storage abilities even further. I tried 300cc “jumbo scooter” Honda Forza few months ago, and for two persons would not choose anything smaller in Mae Hong Son. Many locals and tourists alike wont care, and storm around with their 110cc Scoopy’s and Fino’s. Going by car would obviously be safest, and with aircon, one does not have to care about scorching sun. But because road is so curvy, one has to have a good stomach. Knowing breaking techniques is also mandatory, as overheated breaks loose their grip. Least on personal preference, good curvy roads on nice warm weather are so much more enjoyable on two wheels that decision was easy.
Region is Himalayan foothills that span across North Burma, Thailand, Laos and Yunnan in South China. Region was largely unknown to the world until 19th century, and plurality of ethnics that populate region is stunning. Different hill tribes live in countryside, their remote villages can be accessed by hiring a local travel agent or self-searching the information. I did three village trips to Kayan (Karenni) villages. They are also known as “long neck women”, because of their custom for women to wear brass rings around their neck. There are several theories why this became to be. One is that rings were intended to make women look less attractive, for raiding parties from neighbouring tribes. Other is that rings were intended as protection against tigers, the beast biting to neck of its prey. Third is that they were meant as protection against evil spirits. Am sure there is also fourth and fifth theory at least. Before there were any border demarcated between Burma (Myanmar) and Siam (Thailand), hill tribes moved freely in the region and Thailand has its own ethnic minorities. But today most Kayan people here are refugees from purges by military junta in neighbouring Burma.
Huai Sua Tao is most easily found and accessible, south west from Mae Hong Son centre. Only about 20-30 minutes drive. Its also smallest and most touristy, entry fee is 250 Thai Baht at the time of writing. Women are selling souvenirs for visitors.
Second village is more genuine, and north west of Mae Hong Son centre called Ban Nai Soi. Drive there takes bit of road manoeuvring skill. Road is usable only with dirt bikes during monsoon season. Some locals felt even surprised me showing up one late afternoon.
The best experience was to village of Nam Phiang Din, further south west from first village. It stands beside river Mae Pai that crosses the border nearby. To visit the village, one has to cross the river with help of locals. Entry costs 200 Baht plus 20 Baht for the boat men. Village is biggest than two earlier, has genuine feel in it. People are doing other things there, rather than just wait tourists to show up. Dogs seemed to roam everywhere, which at night time can a surprise. Children were playing on mud streets, adults minding their businesses such as fixing boats, carrying fire wood and caring their young ones. Chicken and pigs were doodling about as well. This meditating place would be good choice, when wanting to escape hectic city life for a moment.
While Thailand is predominantly Buddhist, work of Christian missionaries in 19th century can still be seen in hill tribes
Had strong rain shower when heading up to Doi Ithanon, as last part of my trip. While feeling wet and cold, rain also cleared temples from tourists and had nice moments reading about Buddha in silence.